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to Room. 8. Room Setup Set (2018) Best A How Grow Part Up Grow

Win32den
18.06.2018

Content:

  • to Room. 8. Room Setup Set (2018) Best A How Grow Part Up Grow
  • Gorilla Grow Tent Flex Fit Lid
  • Table of Contents
  • Your Grow Room Setting up an optimal growth environment for your cannabis is crucial for reaping a big potent harvest. Your plant's healthy. So setting up might be more complicated than outdoors but the results and your margins will be a lot greater. Testing things out with a single grow box might be a good solution to get started As said in the part about air circulation, an airflow system and a fan will help you to The Cannabis Grow Room Setup Checklist. But I've spent a good deal of time — I don't like to say how much time, let's just say more than 20 years — working with expert growers. Circulatory movement of air within the grow room breaks up the boundary layer If CO2 is going to be a limiting factor, you may want to build it into your Sep 10,

    to Room. 8. Room Setup Set (2018) Best A How Grow Part Up Grow

    So, in the process of optimizing your growth environment, the CO2 level can actually be your limiting value. Like all the other nutrients, you can have too much or too little. The proper level varies from day to night and also depends on growth phase. Generally, they have a valve and set a timer that turns the gas on for a fixed amount of time every so often.

    Or there are fully automatic methods with electronic sensors. If CO2 is going to be a limiting factor, you may want to build it into your climate control system, as well.

    But thinking ahead, making a plan and, of course, conferring with other more experienced growers is always a good idea. Quest builds quality, energy-efficient dehumidification equipment designed to perform in commercial environments.

    Quest dehumidifiers are the most energy efficient on the market, using the least electricity, removing the most pints of water per kWh over the widest temperature range. I only run mine during the 3rd and 4th weeks , this is when I have to run the dehumidifier !

    I have the controller that shuts down the co2 during the dark hours and max out the exhaust fan speed. First-of-its-kind Federal Court ruling affirms medical cannabis speech cannot be restrained. There are several items to consider when purchasing lights for a cannabis grow. Here are some suggestions for beginners who are growing marijuana indoors. The new Lift by Ardent provides home users with the perfect way to perform decarboxylation of their cannabis.

    Based on feedback from cannabis consumers, here are 8 popular strains smokers are loving in Portable Vaporizers A Hit in and Beyond. I detailed review of the Vapium Lite dry herb vaporizer. Bud Durden Editor Feb 4. TheWeedBlog Editor Jan TheWeedBlog Editor Oct 24, Such a great episode.

    Thanks for the post! TheWeedBlog Editor Oct 15, Fantastic deep dive information in this article! TheWeedBlog Editor Aug 8, It will be so interesting to see how this pans out in Canada and if the U. Any separate unit from your house such as a garage, barn, or shed; are highly risky areas to grow cannabis. Refer to the Marijuana Security Blackbook for more information. Ideally a section of a basement or large room with with surrounding walls makes a very good grow area to set up in. Most growers use a spare bedroom or a closet.

    Also, you will want the entry point to have a lock on it. Some growers conceal the entrance with a custom-fitted bookshelf door, large painting, or mirror. All the walls, flooring, and roof would be covered in reflective material such as Flat white or Mylar. Your ballasts would be attached to the wall.

    Your plants would be placed on the ground in large container buckets spread between the lights. As far as ventilation goes, multiple air ducts and extraction fans would cycle in fresh air and suck out hot air. In order to eliminate the strong smell you would have an Ozone Generator as well.

    A Light Rail is a light mover that is suspended from the ceiling, your lights hang down from it, and it rotates the lights in a circular pattern over your plants. This allows fewer lights to be used in covering a large grow area such as this. If you plan on using a light mover it is strongly recommended that you use either W or W lights. A W or W will under-light the environment when the light is tracking back and forth over a distance of 6 feet.

    A W light is best when using a light mover. Or maybe you are content with a small cabinet in your room, or desire starting off in a closet. Your grow room is your room of possibilities. As you further refine your favorite hobby, you will learn to make the best of your grow space. Perpetual grow cycling is born. This is when you keep most of the room flowering at all times.

    This can be accomplished by having an equal number of plants flowering and in the vegetative grow stage. As you begin to learn more and more about plant genetics you can start to develop your own breed and stock. Soon you can find yourself entering competitions and producing fine quality seeds. Your favorite hobby can realistically become a great source of a rich income for you be sure to check your area for regulations and laws regarding the possession or selling of cannabis seeds!

    The possibilities are endless! The sky is the limit!!! This alternative to growing under a HPS or MH during vegetation is to set up a dedicated vegetative area, and a dedicated flowering area. The vegetative area would use a cloning hardware or something similar that would allow seeds or clones to grow and two standard 48 inch fluorescent tubes, turned on 24 hours a day.

    The cool thing about this method is that while the flowering plants are going through their growth cycle [inside the hydroponic set up], the germinated seeds or clones will have a few months to develop inside the clone setup. Then after the flowering plants have been harvested, the plants in the vegetative area are ready to move to the flowering area.

    New seedlings or clones can then be started in the clone hardware such as a cloner or something similar. So they need to be isolated, either by using curtains, a thick lightproof black cloth or something similar , or by being located far away from each other. The longer a plant has been growing in the vegetative phase, the faster it will flower.

    The only problem with this grow room setup is the extra space needed for two different grow areas…. Opting for two grow areas, one for vegging and one for flowering this can also be accomplished by placing a light barrier dividing your room in half , results in quick heavy potent yields. Black plastic works very well for a light barrier, just make sure you staple it and seal it properly. It cannot be stressed enough that when utilizing this grow setup to make sure the light from the vegetative room does not disturb the sleep from the plants in the flowering room!!!

    Now that you have decided upon your ideal growing spot, it is important to take care of it and keep it as clean as you possibly can. Design your indoor garden with care and planning. Decide beforehand how many plants you will have, how big you will grow them, the dimensions of your room, and how you will position the lights. Also remember you will be using lots of water.

    And it is imperative that you keep any light leaks from the outside out. Cover up interior windows, cracks, or anything else that will show light from the outside. Having light leak is like inviting people to come into your grow room.

    Light leaks are unacceptable and greatly reduce security. Plants a VERY susceptible to infestation and disease. Indoor gardens should contain only items that are absolutely essential for growing. Properly cleaning your grow area before beginning growing is a critical step to ensure long-term success. Do not overlook this section.

    The first step is to clean your grow area before use. It is advisable to remove the carpets if you can. Remove ANY residue or debris that might include any form of insects, parasites or disease. It is absolutely CRITICAL that you clean everything in the growing area then sterilize it with something like Lysol , bleach, or some other strong germ killer to prevent the marijuana plants from being harmed by germs, bacteria, molds, etc.

    Any carpets, drapes, or other fabrics can harbor dust, germs, and mildew so they must be removed. Begin by cleaning the walls and floors with bleach and water very thoroughly. Scrub them until they are sanitary and clean.

    Pay specific attention to corners and any holes. You want your grow area to be like a factory where they manufacture microchips; a completely sterile clean germ-free environment. Now this step is optional, but depending on where you live and where your grow room is especially if it is an old attic you may want to bomb the room with a pesticide smoke bomb depending if you have a pest or insect problem.

    These are available at most hardware stores. This will wipe out all pests, bugs, larvae, algae, eggs etc and any other nasty critters that will threaten your precious marijuana plants. After bombing clean the walls, floor, and ceiling once more to ensure a clean healthy environment for your plants to grow in. Air quality is a crucial factor in growing marijuana, you want to make sure no residue from the pesticide has been left on your walls, floor, or ceiling.

    Never to bring anything that has been sitting outside into your clean grow room as you can bring in pests. Be sure to properly clean it with bleach first. Anything that enters your garden should be considered a potential threat to your plants. Fungus, bacteria, and bugs can come in on tools, equipment, clothing, and pets. Always wear clean clothes when entering your garden. Washing the walls with bleach weekly will help the prevention of fungus and bugs.

    This will protect your floor from water. Watering your plants will create lots of spills. Cover up the bottoms of your plants with trays to catch excessive runoff water. Mop the floor frequently. You may wish to cover your floors with a white plastic or similar material for maximum light reflection, this is discussed in detail in the following section.

    This will ensure your plants get as much direct light as possible, fueling their maximum possible growth. All areas of the grow room should be set up with reflective material. Mylar can be found in most hardware stores. The more reflective the walls, ceiling and floor are the better. Non-reflective surfaces will waste your light by turning it into heat.

    Mylar works the best for reflecting light! A good quality reflector will ensure all your precious light is being directed right at your plants for optimal absorption producing the highest quality potent big yields as possible. And remember, if you are going to paint the walls be sure to use FLAT white, as this is the most reflective. Regular white will NOT reflect as much light as flat white will, resulting in lower yields due to lack of sufficient concentrated light exposure.

    Seal any cracks or unnecessary light leaks to keep the room as airtight as possible and to avoid any mold, fungus, or pests from getting in. Reflective surfaces also help illuminate the lower portions of the garden, providing lower buds with light. This means big tasty yields as all your plants surfaces are getting concentrated light exposure. To get the best results with your light and walls, it is important to get the walls as close as possible to your garden to ensure the least amount of light is wasted.

    The percentages provided are only useful as a general guideline, as they present the range of reflectivity of the particular surfaces. The absolute best way to determine how well your grow room walls reflect light would be to purchase a light meter and measure your light directly; then take an opaque board and hold it a few inches off one of your walls with the light meter below the board in such a fashion that the light reflects off the wall and onto the light meter.

    You can then compare the difference between the two and determine a percentage from those numbers. The closer the two numbers are, the better your wall reflects light. It is important that in both measurements, your light meter is the same distance from the light, otherwise your results will be skewed.

    A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. Foylon is a much more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier and reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it.

    If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

    The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls. Aluminized or Metalized Mylar is an ideal choice. Unlike foil, mylar lays flat without the crinkles and creases if handled with care. Mylar will not create concentrated hot spots. Mylar comes in many material Gauges. An antibacterial hand soap with warm water is perfect.

    This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. As aforementioned, flat white is a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance reflective wall surface. Glossy, plain, and eggshell whites will not reflect light as efficiently as flat white.

    Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is — extreme care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost. Plastic is easily cleaned. It is also a good choice for partitioning off spaces ensuring maximum efficiency of your lighting.

    The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. Choose a 6 mil thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and durability. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar or if painting your grow room is out of the question.

    Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method. It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity.

    It is very easily creased which detracts from its ability to reflect light. So why use it? The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. But, emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall.

    The easiest way to attach this is to use tape aluminum or metal tape is the best , as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured. It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. This should only be used as a last resort.

    An optimal method for watering is to place a liter water barrel in the corner of your grow room. You will want to add a water pump inside the barrel connected to a hose with a spray nozzle for watering your plants. Next add a circulation pump that you will provide a good mix of water and nutrients.

    This will plug into your garden hose and on the other end of it attach a water wand. Add also a breaker head to the end of your water wand, this will add air to your water mix, oxygenating the water just before it is supplied to your plants. You may also want to add a heating device that will keep the water at a constant approximate Make sure the barrel has a LID on it, as this will prevent any water from evaporating unnecessarily increasing the humidity of your room.

    This will also ensure that no unwanted debris falls in your water supply. Water containing mg of calcium per liter is fine. Reverse osmosis machines are the easiest most efficient machines available to clean raw water. This machine allows pure water to pass through it, and in effect it will filter out the dissolved solids from your tap water.

    This is the ideal water for your plants. Most of these materials are available at any hydroponic shop or local hardware store. Setting up a closet is a little bit different than setting up a large grow room, but, similar principles still apply:.

    To start you need a small space — a closet roughly 2x5x6 LxWxH feet. Clean and empty it out as mentioned above. Cover the walls, ceiling and doors with aluminized mylar, shiny side out. This saves light for the plants, ideally, the only light absorber in the room will be the plants. Next step is to put your lights in the room.

    Fluorescents are the cheapest and most readily available. This is the real advantage of fluorescents for the closet grower. For the professional, expensive metal halide and highpressure sodium lights give more light for less electricity.

    But these lights are overkill, and too damn hot for the amateur closet grower. Put either your hydroponic system in, or set up your containers if growing using soil. Keep good air circulation using a ventilation system check below. Cabinet growing is a great method, the goal being to keep a cycle of plants growing at all times. You can use anything ranging from a small closet, a hot press, and old refrigerator, a box, a press, or simply a cupboard or cabinet.

    Typically your grow area will be small accommodating 1 to 5 plants at a time. To get started you will want to get ahold of the cabinet, a light, and an air vent with a fan. Set up your light to be adjustable, you can use chains or some other type of non-flammable cord. Make a large hole in the unit to allow air to enter the unit, and another hole is created to allow air to escape.

    This is due to hot air rising and collecting at the top. You can also place a fan on the intake hole as well. Set your intake fan speed higher than your hot air removal fan so that constant fresh air is being pumped into the unit and stays longer. As described in the reflective surfaces section, paint the walls a Flat White or use Mylar for reflective maximum plant light absorption purposes.

    Your plants in separate pots are placed inside the cabinet and will go through their entire life grow cycle inside the cabinet growing environment. Clones can be taken and placed on a second shelf inside the cabinet. Some people like to create a small compartment inside their cabinet for clones and germination. This compartment must be kept small, you only need enough room to keep the clones alive. Unless you are using a very big setup then you will not need an intake fan for the clones.

    After harvest, place the clones in the grow room and repeat the process. This puts you up in a perpetual growing cycle. If using the right strains you are able to harvest 4 ounces of bud every 30 days.

    It really depends on how big you want to create your grow room. We have seen 5ft x 5ft setups that have yielded 40 ounces of marijuana every 2 months. Many modern growers find it difficult to grow in large closets or huge grow rooms. But they still want to experience the incredible benefits of growing their own delicious supply of potent healing herb.

    So what do they do? This turn-key PC Planter prototype is one of the most awesome stealth grow setups available to the community today. Finally, options for those growers who feel that lack of privacy is the only thing keeping them from harvesting pounds of their favorite greens. A Carbon filter is great for reducing odors.

    They are attached to your ventilation system. Here is how anyone can make a carbon filter to remove odors for cheap. You can get carbon at most aquarium supply web sites — the bulk containers are best here. Kent marine or Esv brand is pretty good. Pelletized activated carbon in the 5 gallon bucket — 5 gallons should do at least a couple fills, which should last for years. Pelletized activated carbon has been crushed and formed into pellets, then washed in an acid solution to create millions of charged pores in the pellets.

    As air passes through the pellets, it attracts odor ions and particles. It can be found and most online aquarium supple outlets. Wrap open the roll of screen around the PVC cap, then duck tape the cap in place.

    This serves to hold the screen open to the appropriate size for use. Trim the screen roll down to the appropriate length for the size hamper you are using. Just eyeball it to be even with the top of the hamper rim — just be within and inch or two. Now we need to wrap the tube we just built in some of the quilt batting.

    Unroll the roll of batting and double it over until it is the same length as the tube we have built. Here I show and the appropriate batting length for the hamper we are using — this means unfolding the batting one time after unrolling it; it is then conveniently cut to the right length.

    Now tape the end to the screen roll the tube around till the batting overlaps just a bit and trim her off, then tape the batting up nice and clean. Ok, now we need to line the inside of the hamper with the batting — the same fold size will work here also. Just wrap the inside and then tape it to the top rim so that it wont move around or drop down into the hamper during filling.

    Now we can insert the tube we have just finished building inside the battinglined hamper basket. Hold the inner tube as you pour in the carbon between the two layers of batting. You can change the amount of carbon by simply wrapping the tube with more rounds of batting.

    This filter would probably use 7 pounds or so. Now we can cut out the top so that we can get the lid over the tube end. Stick the lid on and maybe tape it down if you need to. Attach the other end to a suitable air blower, and wha-la! Here is an example of taping a dryer hose to the output on a blower, but you can get blowers with flanges at most grow shops. There you have it. Commercial-grade effective homemade carbon filter for eliminating ALL exiting odors in your grow room.

    Your plant should live in a stable temperature and optimal growth environment all day and night, in order to ensure highest possible quality smoke. Always keep a window open to refresh the air quality in your grow room each day.

    Fresh air surrounding your plants also tricks them into thinking they are in an outside grow environment, so consequently your buds will grow bigger and faster. No indoor garden can be without a ventilation system. Heat is the biggest problem for the indoor grower; that is, maintaining the proper temperature for the plants. In order for plants to thrive they need a constant supply of fresh air.

    Proper ventilation is essential for healthy thriving plants. Make sure your vent fan is strong enough to produce a pronounced suction effect in your grow chamber.

    A room with an exhaust fan on the ceiling is a good choice if that is available to you. The exhaust fan on the ceiling will help keep the temperature cool, and if needed, you can upgrade to a stronger fan to remove a larger volume of hot air created by the grow-lights. This will keep your room nice and cool — the ideal growth environment for growing dank buds. You can install a thermostat and a ventilator system so as soon as the grow room gets too hot, the thermostat will switch on the ventilator to cycle out the hot air.

    A constant flow of fresh air must be available to the plants. All hot, stale air should be ejected to outside the grow area and not be immediately recycled hint: Make sure your fan is up, over the plants to collect the hot air that rises.

    If using an air intake, it should be positioned low to the ground to pump cool air into the chamber. It is advisable to place filters on your ventilation system, as this will block out any unwanted odors from escaping. Carbon coal filters are very good. You can also position an oscillating rotating fan so that it is blowing directly over the tops of your plants, cooling the area between them and your light.

    You may also want to have an additional fan blowing air below the buds. Both fans should be positioned so that they receive incoming air from outside the chamber and blow towards the ventilation fan.

    The oscillating fan will also assist in thebuds developing thicker stalks and stems when a constant gentle breeze is applied. The reason fresh air and good ventilation is a MUST, other than heating removal reasons, is it is required to replace the oxygen supply to the plants due to their constant carbon dioxide expulsion.

    Cycling clean air into the grow area is an absolute necessity if you want to ensure maximum yields. Every grow room will need some sort of exhaust fan to move hot stale carbon dioxide-saturated air out. Intake areas should be clean and dust free. Air intake and outtake areas should be as far away from each other as possible to promote maximum air circulation. Place intakes as low as possible and outtakes as high as possible.

    A squirrel cage fan attached to a dryer hose makes for a good cheap ventilation system. If grow lights heat is a major concern, you might want to consider checking out Cooltubes. Each fan has a rating that tells you how many cubic feet of air per minute CFM it will move. When dealing with average temperatures you will want your fan to exchange the grow room air times in one minute, so for a room that is 40 cubic feet, a fan that is capable of moving cfm cubic feet per minute is recommended.

    If you only want to replace depleted levels of CO2 and are growing in a closet using fluorescents, one room change per five minutes divide room size by 5 will be adequate. To calculate your room size, multiply Width by Length by Height, this will give you the CFM rating required for one room change per minute. For internal circulation oscillating fans are the most efficient devices for circulating air in a room. The gentle back and forth sway of the fan is very beneficial for the developing plants.

    These fans keep mold down. Home improvement centers carry a large array of various types and styles of air-moving fans, there are wall-mounted styles available and most are relatively inexpensive.

    So make sure that you have a highly effective exhaust system. You will want to make sure your exhaust fan is rated for high CFM under pressure.

    All fans will have a CFM rating, this rating is how many cubic feet of atmosphere the fan moves per minute. Your exhaust fan should be capable of evacuating your grow room at least once every five minutes. Multiply the width, height, and depth of your room to determine the total cubic feet, divide this number by five and you will have the minimum CFM fan rating needed. Of course this assumes the fan maintains its CFM under pressure and actually performs to specifications.

    It is best to overshoot this rating as much as your budget will allow. Even if your fan does perform to specifications pulling more air through will help keep the temperature of the room down and exhaust the heat from powerful fans.

    Generally squirrel cage and duct fans are used for exhaust systems. These fans can be connected to 4 inch and 6 inch flexible ducting that can be used to route the air where you want it and to pull air through a carbon filter. In addition to your exhaust system you will need an air intake. For many systems a passive intake is used, simply providing a channel for fresh air to enter the grow room to replace the air being exhausted.

    For a larger area or longer intake line you may need an active intake. Providing an active intake relieves pressure to allow the exhaust and intake to share the workload of air exchange. Otherwise the exhaust fan must provide the force required to pull air into the room as well as the force required to exhaust. In a small closet where there are only a few plants you can probably create enough air circulation just by opening the door to look at them.

    Although it is possible to grow healthy looking plants in poorly ventilated rooms, they would be larger and healthier if they had a fresh supply of air coming in. If you spend a lot of time in your growing room, your plants will grow better because they will be using the carbon dioxide that you are exhaling around them.

    It is sometimes quite difficult to get a fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room is usually hidden away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in the attic or basement.

    In this case, a fan will create some movement of air. It will also stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier stalk. To a degree, though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its energy into producing leaves and resin instead of stems. Correct temperature is extremely important. Carelessness when monitoring and maintaining temperature levels can cost you ounces of bud.

    Ideally place a thermometer near your plants on the containers and one on the wall of your grow room. Night temperatures should be kept properly to prevent stress. It is preferable during flowering to have a night temperature drop to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation. Remember that you always measure the temperature in the shade, and not in direct light.

    If these extremes are exceeded the plant may be permanently damaged or killed. If larger temperature drops are a problem, run your vent fan all night or intermittently throughout the night to expel moist air. This will accelerate growth a bit. In some situations, a heater or air conditioner may be required to keep temperature levels in check. Raising temperatures will cause faster photosynthetic processes to a point. If you are growing a seedling for the purpose of checking the sex, it will however be a good thing to keep the temperature up a bit.

    Low humidity causes stress on plants. Utilizing this method you can be sure to frost your buds up considerably this way. The higher humidity levels prior to final ripening reduce salt levels within the plant tissue and encourage healthy, more lush growth.

    If the temperature in your grow room raises too much, the humidity will increase and the plants are susceptible to mold.

    The lower the temperature the less moisture the air can hold. When temperature drops, humidity rises. It really is that simple. Low humidity cause stress on plants. Humidity should be between percent relative humidity rH. Humidity is simply the amount of water in the air. This is the range that marijuana grows best in. Use a hygrometer to measure humidity if you think your grow area is out of range.

    A humidifier can increase humidity and a dehumidifier can be used to lower humidity. You can also use fresh air to regulate humidity levels as well. To measure humidity you will want to use a Hygrometer an extremely important essential instrument for your grow room. This will save you plenty of money and frustration from fungi destroying your plants. Some hygrometers have built in thermometers to measure the temperature.

    To increase the humidity in the air, simply spray the air with a spray bottle, or you can let a bucket of water evaporate in the room place it near your lights. One of the survival adaptations the cannabis plant has when grown in a dry climate is that it will actually increase the resin all over the plant in order to keep it from drying out.

    This is why it is important to maintain proper atmospheric humidity levels in your grow room to ensure potent bud. To measure these levels, be sure to keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the the drying area very close to the plants. A hygrometer allows you to keep tabs on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature.

    Some hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can measure both temperature and humidity at the same time. Depending on the time of year and your current location, a heater or an air conditioner might be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control the humidity levels a dehumidifier can lower the humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise it.

    There are two types of humidifiers — warm mist and cool mist. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between a warm or cool mist. Warm mist actually heats up the water and releases warm humidity.

    In most cases a cool mist works best. Be sure to print the following checklists out and follow them to ensure a successful, abundant, healthy harvest! Once a month schedule a thorough cleaning. This is the time when you should clean up and sterilize your equipment and grow room. In order to achieve this, our primary objective is to implement advanced growing methods that allow us to grow really really big top colas a cola is a group of buds.

    So with the methods below this allows us to focus on maximizing the growth of the top part of the plant.

    The top cola is the part of the plant that produces the most bud, so here we are going to use the following methods to get that part of the plant to grow really big. How far you take the below methods are completely up to you.

    We have seen some growers fill entire grow rooms with these advanced growing methods outlined below. Sea of Green SOG , originally developed in Holland, is the method of harvesting lots of small plants, matured early to get the fastest production of buds available. It is a technique whereby you grow a far greater number of smaller plants rather than a small number of large plants. Usually clones are used for uniform growth characteristics and each plant is trimmed so that only the main stalk grows.

    The sea of green method was developed to maximize the speed of cannabis growing in limited height situations. In a typical sea of green setup of this type, clones are planted at densities as high as 9 per sq. Instead of growing a few plants for a longer period of time in the same space, many smaller plants are grown that mature faster and in less time.

    Thus, less time is required between crops. One crop can be started while another is maturing, and a continuous harvest year round can be maintained. This is OK since indoors these bottom branches are always shaded anyway, and will not grow very well unless given additional light and space. The indoor grower quickly realizes that plants that are too tall do not produce enough at the bottom to make the extra growing time used worthwhile.

    An exception to this rule would be if it is intended the plants are to go outside at some point, and it is expected that the light or shading issue will not be a factor at that point. Little light will penetrate below this level, since the plants are so close together. The gardener is attempting to concentrate on the top of the plant, and use the light and space to the best advantage in as little time as possible.

    Use of nylon poultry fence or similar trellising laid out over the green canopy will support the plants as they start to droop under the weight of heavy fruiting tops. Stakes can be used too, but are not as easy to install for plants in the middle and back of the room, where reach is more difficult. Instead of fitting 4 large plants in that small room, you can fit 12 small ones on a shelf above 12 other small plants.

    Gorilla Grow Tent Flex Fit Lid

    Building a sustainable commercial grow room? Find out how to choose the right space, what types of soil are best, sustainable watering. Related: Growing Marijuana Indoors Guide you'll decide where you want to use a grow tent or build a grow room from the ground up Part 3: Grow Lights “So that means I should but the biggest, best grow light, right? Prevents stale air from building up– Stale air in your grow room can lead to. Related: Growing Marijuana Indoors Guide Part 1: Planning Out Your Grow. Before setting up your dream grow tent for your future harvests, you'll want It doesn't have to be fancy, but a nice visual always helps with the setup process. You should have that breaker exclusively for your grow room.

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    dimi4ko

    Building a sustainable commercial grow room? Find out how to choose the right space, what types of soil are best, sustainable watering.

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